Pardon Me, I Speak Gown

Buying a wedding dress is unlike any shopping you've done before. There are new terms you need to know - Basque waist, blusher, portrait neckline - and protocol you have to follow - appointments only, fittings. To make your bridal gown shopping experience easier, the authors of the Anti-Bride Wedding Planner have compiled a list of wedding dress jargon so you'll know what the sales consultant means when she gives you a mermaid, halter dress with matching flyaway veil to try.

Dresses

Bias cut: Fabric is cut on the diagonal so it hugs curves - often used in slip dresses.
PRO: Verrrry sexy, in a 1930s-siren, slinky-negligee kind of way. CON: You can't wear much of anything under a bias-cut dress - even a bra can show through.

Basque waist: This fitted style shows off your waist. The hem of the bodice comes to a point at the front of the belly-think Disney's Snow White. The skirt is usually full.
PRO: Adds structure, especially for a fuller figure.
CON: Full skirt can pouf out around the hips.

Empire waist: Named for Empress Josephine, Napoleon's wife, an Empire waist is gathered just under the bust, then falls in a slight A-line shape to the hem.

PRO:Flattering to any figure.
CON: Because Empire-waist dresses hide your stomach, some guests may assume you're pregnant.

Mermaid: A gown that's fitted through the bodice, hips, and thighs, swelling out into a skirt-shaped "bell" around the knees.
PRO: Shows off a curvy figure.
CON: No room for any lumps or bumps. Best on an hourglass figure.

Princess cut: Seams or darts shape the bodice into a graceful hourglass shape from bust to hips, without the usual gathered waist.
PRO: Doesn't chop you in half at the waist; good for a curvy figure.
CON: Can look old-fashioned; heavy fabrics (like velvet) can look bulky.

Learn the lingo for necklines, sleeves and veils.

Necklines

Boat or bateau: Straight line across collarbone from shoulder to shoulder; often paired with a fitted bodice.
PRO: Emphasizes broad shoulders; good for playing down a big bust.
CON: Bra straps can show; wear a strapless bra or merry widow.

Halter top: Think 1950s-style bathing suit. Straps hug the neck and tie, fasten, or loop at the nape.
PRO: Cool and fashionable; great with a smaller bust.
CON: Shows off the upper back, so you'll need to wear a backless bra; shoulders and upper arms should be display-worthy.

Jewel neckline: Simple round neckline that arcs just under the collarbone.
PRO: Classic and flattering to just about any figure.
CON: Not hugely exciting.

Portrait neckline: Deep, wide scoop that usually bares some of the shoulder and is surrounded by a collar or pleat.
PRO: Makes your cleavage look dreamy.
CON: Looks best if you have some cleavage to work with.

Sweetheart neckline: Think of the top of a heart shape.
PRO: 1950s-cute.
CON: 1950s-cute. Also not for the cleavage-challenged.

Learn the lingo for sleeves and veils.

Sleeves

Cap sleeves: Small, rounded sleeve that covers the top of the shoulder.
PRO: Shows off your arms.
CON: Not the right choice if you're self-conscious about showing off your arms.

Short or T-shirt sleeve: Sleeve that comes halfway down your upper arm.
PRO: A nice basic sleeve, flattering to most arms.
CON: Not particularly spectacular.

Three-quarter-length sleeves: Tightly fitted sleeves that end halfway down the forearm.
PRO: Covers top of arms. Provides added warmth.
CON: Makes arms look longer.

Strapless: Dress is held up with stays in the bodice.
PRO: Really shows off the chest, neck, shoulders, and arms.
CON: Lack of straps and sleeves limits your range of motion when dancing.

Learn the lingo for veils.

Veil Jargon

Veil manufacturers speak a jargon all their own. Each slight variation in length, width, or shape of cut gets its own term, all of which vie to sound the most romantic. Here are a few basics to help you on your way.

Blusher: Short, over-the-face veil that just grazes the chin.

Flyaway: Like the blusher, only in reverse: covers the back of the head down to the shoulders.

Fingertip: Falls to the hip line.

Waltz or ballerina: Falls to just above the ankles.

Chapel: Usually measures six to seven feet from the crown of your head.

Cathedral: Usually measures ten to twelve feet.

Monarch: The longest of all veils.

Excerpted from Anti-Bride Wedding Planner by Carolyn Gerin, Kathleen Hughes, Amy Glynn Hornick. © Chronicle Books.